How Should a Sport Coat Fit?
The sport coat is often treated as a more casual alternative to a suit jacket, but when it comes to fit, the underlying principles are largely the same. As Brian Kreps explains, at B. Kreps we do not style the fit of a sport jacket any differently than a suit coat unless a client specifically requests it. In both cases, the objective is comfort, balance, and a silhouette that follows the natural lines of the body.
Core fit principles
A sport coat should sit cleanly on the shoulders, follow the contours of the chest and waist, and allow natural movement through the arms and back. It should never feel restrictive, nor should it appear loose or shapeless. When properly fitted, the jacket supports the body without stiffness and maintains structure without rigidity.
Although sport coats are worn in more relaxed settings, that does not mean the fit should be careless. Precision in fit does not make a jacket formal. Fabric choice, texture, and styling decisions create informality, not compromised proportions.
Personal preference, lifestyle, and comfort
One of the most important factors in a successful sport coat is that it reflects how the client actually lives. Unlike a suit, which often serves a defined professional purpose, a sport coat may be worn across a wide range of settings. That makes the design process inherently collaborative.
At B. Kreps, creating a sport coat is a joint exercise between client and tailor. Preferences around comfort, movement, layering, length, and overall ease are discussed in detail. Lifestyle considerations such as travel, Houston’s climate, work environment, and how the jacket will be worn day to day all inform the final design. The goal is not simply a good fit, but a jacket that feels natural in the client’s real life.
The B. Kreps bespoke process
What ultimately ensures that a sport coat fits correctly is the bespoke process behind it. At B. Kreps, this begins with a try-on garment rather than relying solely on a measuring tape. This allows posture, balance, shoulder slope, and movement to be evaluated directly on the body. During this fitting, roughly thirty fit points are observed and recorded, including adjustments that cannot be captured through measurements alone.
From this information, a unique pattern is drafted specifically for the individual client. Nothing is scaled or adapted from an existing template. The jacket is then cut from the bolt of cloth and made through our atelier in Amsterdam before returning to Houston for final refinement. Because fit, lifestyle, and design intent are resolved at the pattern stage, the finished sport coat feels intentional rather than adjusted.
Fashion and stylistic considerations
Fashion trends also influence how sport coats are worn. Periods that favor slimmer tailoring produce closer fits, while shifts toward relaxed dressing bring fuller cuts, softer shoulders, and more drape. Neither approach is inherently better. What matters is that the fit aligns with the wearer’s proportions, taste, and lifestyle rather than chasing trends in isolation.
The bespoke advantage
A sport coat should fit like a suit jacket that understands how you actually live. When comfort, proportion, personal style, and B. Kreps’ bespoke process are aligned from the outset, the result is a garment that feels effortless, versatile, and genuinely personal.
Come and visit us at one of our showrooms in Houston or book an appointment for your first bespoke commission.
Heights
2313 Edwards Street
Unit 115
Houston, Texas 77007
(281) 799-4872
Downtown Tunnel Loop
919 Milam Street
Unit T0700
Houston, Texas 77002