Bespoke vs Tailored: What Do These Terms Actually Mean?
The words “tailored” and “custom” are used constantly in menswear marketing, yet they are among the least precise terms in the industry. They sound authoritative, but on their own they tell you almost nothing about how a garment is made, how it fits, or what level of craftsmanship is involved. In practice, these labels can be applied to the full spectrum of offerings - from lightly altered ready-to-wear to made-to-measure programs, and yes, even to fully bespoke work made from scratch for a specific individual.
Why “tailored” and “custom” are practically meaningless
At its most basic, “tailored” can simply mean that a garment has been altered after purchase. Shortening sleeves, tapering trousers, or adjusting a waist technically makes a garment tailored, but it does not change how the garment was originally conceived or constructed. Likewise, “custom” is often used to describe products that allow some choice of fabric or styling, even when the underlying pattern and construction are pre-fabricated.
Because these terms are not regulated, they are often used as umbrella language that can describe almost anything. Thus, a brand might call an altered off-the-rack suit “tailored,” or a scaled template “custom.”
What made to measure usually involves
Made to measure always starts with an existing pattern. Measurements are taken and used to scale that pattern up or down. Some proportional adjustments may be made, but the garment is still constrained by the original template. While this approach can improve fit compared to ready-to-wear, it assumes a relatively standard body shape and posture. Movement, balance, and posture-driven nuances are often only partially addressed, if at all.
What bespoke actually means
Bespoke tailoring is not defined by options or alterations, but by process. At B. Kreps, bespoke begins with a try-on garment rather than a measuring tape, because it allows posture, balance, shoulder slope, and movement to be observed directly. During this first fitting, roughly thirty fit points are captured, including adjustments that cannot be identified through a tape measure alone.
From this information, a unique pattern is drafted specifically for the individual client. Nothing is resized, scaled, or adapted from an existing block. The pattern exists solely for that client and forms the foundation for all future garments.
How the garment is made: The B. Kreps Bespoke Process
Once the pattern is finalized, the suit is cut from the bolt of cloth in our atelier in Amsterdam. It is not altered from a pre-existing template and is not assembled from standardized components. After construction, the garment returns to Houston for a fitting, where any final refinements are made in-house. All adjustments are logged, creating continuity and consistency over time.
Why the distinction matters
Understanding the difference between bespoke and generic terms like tailored or custom allows clients to make informed decisions. Bespoke offers precision, adaptability, and long-term refinement that template-based programs and simple alterations cannot replicate. In a marketplace crowded with loosely defined terminology, B. Kreps remains Houston’s only true full-service bespoke tailor. The most reliable way to understand the difference is to experience the fitting process firsthand.
Come and visit us at one of our showrooms in Houston to learn more or book an appointment for your first bespoke commission.
Heights
2313 Edwards Street
Unit 115
Houston, Texas 77007
(281) 799-4872
Downtown Tunnel Loop
919 Milam Street
Unit T0700
Houston, Texas 77002